The Destination
The Golden Land, and the Country the World Has Mostly Stopped Visiting
Myanmar is one of the strangest gifts in contemporary travel. It is a country of staggering natural and architectural beauty: the Bagan plain with its two thousand Buddhist temples, Inle Lake's floating gardens and one-legged rowing fishermen, the golden Shwedagon Pagoda rising 99 metres above Yangon. Since the 2021 political rupture it has received a tiny fraction of the visitors it once did. Those who travel here now find a country largely to themselves and are welcomed warmly.
The heart of the itinerary is Bagan. From a viewing mound at 5:30 in the morning, you watch the first light spread across the plain, the river mist lifting off the Irrawaddy, and (if the weather agrees) fifteen or twenty hot air balloons drifting silently across a thousand spires. We ride in one of those balloons. It is, without hyperbole, one of the great travel moments left on Earth.
Beyond Bagan, we spend unhurried days in Mandalay and its royal cities (Inwa, Amarapura, Mingun), with a sunset on the teak U Bein Bridge, then climb south into the cool Shan Highlands for the painted caves of Pindaya and the floating villages of Inle Lake. A short flight takes us to Yangon for the final chapter: a country of great colonial boulevards and the pagoda that the Burmese call the soul of their nation. Fifteen days. One country. The world, briefly, held in the palm of your hand.
"There is nowhere else quite like dawn over the Bagan plain. Temples to every horizon, and the silence of a thousand years."