The Destination
Where the Sahara Begins and the Caravan Cities Still Stand
Mauritania is the last country in the world where you can ride one of the longest freight trains on Earth, sleep beneath dunes untouched by a single neon sign, and walk through libraries whose manuscripts were shelved while Europe was still building its first cathedrals. It is a country the size of France and Spain combined, most of it sand, all of it administered by a people whose culture was forged in motion, the Moors of the western Sahara, the bidan, who measure wealth in camels, tea, and the silence between words.
The Adrar Plateau, at the heart of the country, is the Sahara at its most photogenic: the towering dunes of Azoueiga, palm groves folded into the stone canyon at Terjit, the vast concentric rings of the Richat Structure (the “Eye of Africa”) and the UNESCO-listed caravan cities of Chinguetti and Ouadane whose stone libraries still hold Qur'ans and astronomical manuscripts written in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. These were the great trans-Saharan trading towns, where salt from the north met gold from the south, and where Islamic scholarship flourished for five hundred years.
And then there is the train (one of the longest in the world, sometimes three kilometres long) that hauls iron ore across the desert to the Atlantic at Nouadhibou. We join it out in the Sahara and ride overnight in an open ore wagon, wrapped in a scarf against the dust and the cold, the whole Milky Way overhead: among the great romantic journeys remaining on Earth.
"Few countries let you touch the Sahara this honestly. Mauritania is the desert when the desert still belongs to the people who live in it."