The Destination
The Country That Bet Everything on Green, and Won
Costa Rica occupies three hundredths of one percent of the planet's surface and holds roughly five percent of its species. That absurd arithmetic is the product of geography (a mountainous land bridge between two continents, washed by two oceans) and of a national decision made decades ago: the army was abolished, the forests were protected, and a quarter of the country became parkland. The result is the rarest thing in travel: a wild destination that is also easy, safe, and joyful.
The variety per road-hour beggars belief. In a single day you can stand on the rim of a steaming crater above the cloud forest, cruise a jungle river past caimans and howler monkeys, and soak in hot water heated by a live volcano. Sloths hang over hotel car parks. Scarlet macaws commute along the coast road. The national greeting (pura vida, "pure life") is less a phrase than an operating philosophy, and it is contagious within about a day and a half.
This expedition draws the classic arc across the country's greatest hits, privately and at our pace: the Poás crater and the coffee highlands, Arenal's volcano country with its river safari and hanging bridges, the golden Pacific beaches of Guanacaste, and the wildlife-stuffed rainforest shore of Manuel Antonio, with naturalist guides throughout, every park entrance handled, and the hot springs waiting at the end of the right days.
"Three hundredths of a percent of the world's land, five percent of its life. Costa Rica is what a country looks like when it chooses the forest."