The Destination
The Most Overlooked Corner of the Continent
The three Guianas (Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana) sit side by side on the northeastern shoulder of South America, speaking English, Dutch and French respectively, which tells you how thoroughly this coast was carved up and how thoroughly it has been ignored since. Guyana is the only English-speaking country on the continent. Suriname was Dutch until 1975. French Guiana is not a country at all but an overseas department of France, which makes the euro the currency and the European Union the jurisdiction, five degrees north of the equator.
This expedition takes all three, overland, in ten days. It opens in Georgetown with the scenic flight to Kaieteur (a single 226-metre plunge into an unbroken jungle gorge, with no guardrail, no cable car and almost no other visitors), then crosses the Courantyne by ferry into Suriname for the UNESCO wooden capital of Paramaribo and two nights deep on the Upper Suriname River with the Saamaka Maroons.
A second river border, the Maroni, opens French Guiana: the penal transportation camp at Saint-Laurent, the prison islands of the Îles du Salut where Alfred Dreyfus was held, and the Guiana Space Centre at Kourou, Europe's working spaceport. The route then returns overland to Paramaribo for the flight home. Three countries, two international river crossings, nine nights: all of it handled.
"Nearly five times the height of Niagara, dropping into an unbroken jungle gorge with no guardrail and almost no other visitors."