The Destination
A Lodge Only the Helicopter Reaches
Forty-five kilometres west of Golden, in the Battle Range of British Columbia's northern Selkirks, a stone and timber lodge sits at 2,200 metres, just above the last trees. Hans Gmoser, the Canadian mountaineer who pioneered heli-skiing, built it with friends in 1978, and there is still no road in. You arrive the way they did, by helicopter from Golden, where the lodge's shuttle bus brings you from Calgary airport.
Around it lie 12,000 acres skied only by the lodge's own guests: steep old-growth trees below the door, open alpine bowls, couloirs and long glacier runs above, and around seven metres of snow in an average season. There are no lifts, no snowmobiles and no other groups. With ten skiers at most, all guided by the lodge's own team, you ski in small groups and choose each morning between a big objective and an easy powder day.
Evenings are the other half of the week. A private chef cooks from Canadian farms, the espresso bar opens at seven, the cellar leans on the Okanagan, and there is a cedar sauna, a fire and Starlink for anyone who has to check in with home. We book it all from Calgary and back: the shuttle to Golden, the helicopter, every meal, the guides and the avalanche kit.
"Twelve thousand acres of Selkirk powder, ten skiers, and no tracks but your own."