The Destination
The Country Conan Doyle Called the Lost World
In the south-east of Venezuela the land lifts into the tepuis, sheer-walled sandstone table mountains, some of the oldest exposed rock on Earth, rising two kilometres straight out of the rainforest and savanna of the Gran Sabana. Arthur Conan Doyle set his Lost World on top of one of them. Off the rim of the largest, Auyán-tepui, the longest thread of falling water on the planet drops almost a kilometre before it touches anything: Angel Falls.
Several hundred kilometres to the northeast, the same continent does the opposite. The Orinoco (one of the great rivers of the world) breaks apart before the Atlantic into a delta the size of a small country, a labyrinth of channels called caños threaded with moriche palms. The Warao have lived above its water in stilt houses for thousands of years; the country's name, "little Venice," comes from villages like theirs.
Between the two sits Caracas, in a long valley beneath the green wall of El Ávila. This expedition draws a line through all three (the tepuis and Angel Falls, the delta and the Warao, and the city in its mountain bowl) by internal flight rather than the long and difficult roads. It is the wild heart of a country most travellers have written off, reached the way it should be.
"The longest drop of falling water on Earth, off the rim of a mountain that inspired the Lost World, and almost no one there to see it."